“Our Round Square weekend took us sight-seeing to two historical spots in the state of Madhya Pradesh (“MP” to locals). This meant departing from the beautiful Emerald Heights School grounds into the real India to grow our spirit of adventure, a Round Square ideal! We motored along in a convoy of yellow school buses, through the city of Indore dodging holy cows, feral (but adorable) dogs, and motorbikes piled high with families and produce. Bollywood music and cartons of mango juice kept spirits high, as we gazed out at the chai wallahs and vegetable sellers lining the way. Will and Issy (our Head Boy and Head Round Square Prefect) chatted happily to new friends from Australia’s outback.
Mandu is the largest fortified city of Medieval India, surrounded by a wall with 12 major entry gates or “darwazas”. Built on a plateau of the Vindhya Mountain, it was a hit with both the history and geography students in our group. A Sanskrit inscription dates its origins back to 555 AD but the fortress is one of the finest examples of Hindu and Afghan fusion architecture. Issy and I were thinking the same thing: How would this compare to our very own Carisbrooke Castle? The stonework felt familiar, the gateways were similar and there were even squirrels scurrying around our feet (stripy ones at that, having been blessed by Lord Shiva).
But whereas English castles needed heating solutions, India’s forts needed water and cooling solutions. Mandu’s water system is an engineering masterclass. Being located in the middle of an arid region, water harvesting during the monsoon was critical for survival. Large roof top canals feed underground storage tanks, bathing pools in the shape of the lotus and even Turkish hammams. Water is used for air cooling as well, and at points, even acoustic enrichment. Gosh, they were clever engineers and true environmentalists – another Round Square box ticked.
Life was not just about survival for Indian rulers of course but also about pleasure. And our knowledgeable guides – all Emerald Heights students – told us stories of the harem of 15,000 women who were paid gold coins to keep fit!
Maheshwar – the ancient city of Shiva – was Sunday’s outing. Known for its hand-looming industry and sarees, it is based on the side of the sacred river Narmada and graced by the unpretentious palace of Devi Ahilya – she was such a kind soul, she took the status of goddess as opposed to princess, despite her marriage to royalty. We were warmly welcomed by the weavers’ children, planting bright orange “bindis” between our eyebrows and passing thread necklaces over our heads. Our Head Master was impressed by the neatness of the uniform and hair of the children! Socks and shoes came off to explore Devi’s humble wooden home, before moving onto the Ahilyabai fort on the riverbanks, where I snapped away at the ornate gods and goddesses carved into the sandstone fort walls.
A huge thank you to our hosts for organising these trips that have highlighted just some of the magic of India.” Dawn Haig-Thomas
Head Master, Mark Waldron's Blog 